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Tom Fitzmorris

Tune in to "The Food Show" for fun talk about restaurants, recipes, reviews and more!

Weekdays on 3WL 1350am Noon-3pm
Saturdays on WWL Noon-3pm
Email: Tom@nomenu.com

Tom: Start today on this delicious traditional German dessert

AlmanacSquareToday's Flavor

Today is Last Chance For Rumtopf Day. Rumtopf (also spelled rhumtopf) is a traditional German holiday dessert of fresh fruit marinated in rum. In its most traditional form, it takes all year to make. But if you start today it will still be very good by Christmas, if not with the variety you could have had.

Here's how. In a large (gallon) glass jar or ceramic crock, load about two inches deep of washed, fresh seasonal fruit. The fruit you use should be a little underripe. Almost anything works, from berries to bananas. Mix two cups of simple sugar syrup with a cup of light rum, and pour it over the fruit until it's covered. Keep buying and adding layers of fruit, trying for a contrast in colors and shapes. Always top it off with the syrup-rum mixture. Keep doing this until the jar is full. You don't need to do it all in one day. It will keep without refrigeration, as long as the brandy soaks everything. When Christmas rolls around, you scoop out the fruit and serve it over ice cream. Delicious!

Gourmet Gazetteer
There are two Rum Creeks in Alabama. One of them runs northwest eleven miles alongside the old Montgomery Highway and the current Kansas City Southern Railroad main line, meeting Cypress Creek at the outskirts of Tuscaloosa. The outflow of Rum Creek is right behind a Waffle House and a Hooters. Not promising. How about Costas Barbecue, another three blocks away? The other Rum Creek is ninety-two miles south of the first one, seventy-seven miles west of Montgomery. It's a tributary of the Alabama River at a spot where the Alabama has reservoir characteristics. Although this Rum Creek is only four miles long, it's wider and has better fishing. The nearest restaurant is eleven miles south in Camden: the Southern Seafood and Steak House.

Edible Dictionary
rum baba, n.–Also called "baba au rhum," this is an yeast-risen sweet bread soaked in (and sometimes nearly floating in) a mixture of rum and syrup and served as a dessert. The bread is made much as a brioche is, but with more eggs and sugar. The word "baba" is of Slavic origin, and it's through that connection that it made its way to the American cities where it is found. Which is not as many is it used to be. Here in New Orleans, rum babas were popular desserts in many restaurants, especially the many local establishments owned by either Italians or Croatians. Italy and Croatia or neighbors, and no doubt they brought the idea with them when they emigrated to Louisiana.

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez
The wide rubber bands around bunches of broccoli should be saved, until common sense tells you to stop. Wrap one around the lid of a hard-to-open jar. It will give your hand more traction.

Music To Peel Fruit By
Today in 1955, The Banana Boat Song was recorded by Harry Belafonte. It's better known by its most famous words: Day-O! Day-ay-ay-o. Daylight come and me wan' go home! A beautiful bunch of ripe bananas. . . etc.

Food Through History
Today in 1940, with the Nazis running rampant around Europe, the Netherlands began rationing cheese. That was for the Dutch something like crawfish being rationed to the Cajuns.

Sports Figures In Food
This is the birthday, in 1931, of Yankee baseball great Mickey Mantle. He was a partner in a sports bar and restaurant named for him on Central Park in New York City. There's also a Mickey Mantle Steakhouse in Oklahoma, where he was born.

Food Namesakes
Robert Trout, one of the earliest broadcast journalists, went to work for CBS today in 1932. . . Middleweight Sugar Ray Robinson had his last boxing victory–his one hundred seventy-fourth!–today in 1965. . . Jelly Roll Morton, one of the seminal figures in early jazz piano, was born today in 1890, here in New Orleans. His real name was Ferdinand LeMothe. . . . Augustus Octavius Bacon was born today in 1839. Apparently his parents wanted him to become Emperor, but he only made it from Georgia to the US Senate. . . Olive Thomas, a beautiful young actress and Ziegfield girl, was born today in 1894. . . Stephen Raab is a German comedian and television personality. born today in 1966. ("Raab" is one of the names of the vegetable also known as broccoli di rape.)

Words To Eat By
"Give me books, French wine, fruit, fine weather and a little music out of doors, played by somebody I do not know."–John Keats.

Words To Drink By
"And Mocha's berry, from Arabia pure,
In small fine china cups, came in at last.
Gold cups of filigree, made to secure
The hand from burning, underneath them place.
Cloves, cinnamon and saffron, too, were boiled
Up with the coffee, which, I think, they spoiled."–Lord Byron
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Tom: Tips on bringing a private party to your favorite restaurant

FoodFAQsQ. My company had a great year this year, and I thought I'd pay back my customers and employees by throwing a Christmas party in an upscale place. I called one of your favorite restaurants and told them we'd like to take advantage of their famous lunch special for a seated lunch for fifty people. I was very surprised to be told that they would not allow us to get the lunch special, and that we had to go along with their banquet menus. The food sounded good enough, but the price was about twice that of the lunch special. I thought this was a ripoff and told them so. Why would a restaurant turn away business like that?

A. To make a long story short, it's all about supply and demand. Fifty people must either be served in a private dining room, or in a main dining room that will probably have to be closed to other diners. Not many restaurants have much in the way of private rooms big enough for your group. And Christmas is a time when the demand for private dining space and the personnel to serve it are at peak.

The bargain lunch specials–to look at this from another direction–have a specific function: to make friends with in local customers, so that when those customers want to do something first-class they will remember the place. Big restaurants have to make a profit somewhere (lunch is marginal for them), and their bigness is their top-shelf asset. Covering the fixed costs of keeping up those private rooms throughout the year is an issue, too. If what you want is a good price more than anything else, you will find a greater welcome on a Tuesday in late August.

This post originally appeared on Tom's website, NOMenu.com
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Tom: Lousiana Seafood Festival all weekend in City Park

EatingNowSquareWe have a big eating festival this weekend, the first really major one in awhile. (Everything seems to stop cold in late August and all of September.) The Louisiana Seafood Festival is known as much for its wanderings over the years as for the food there. The first two of its seven years, it took place on the Fulton Street pedestrian mall. It outgrew that and moved to the Old U.S. Mint. From there it drifted into Lafayette Square, where even a tremendous rainstorm failed to slow things down.

Finally, last year the festival found what it says is a permanent home in City Park. Specifically, it's that field adjacent to Christian Brothers' School. The event was very well attended, even though the parking for it required a bit of a walk. But walking through the park is not the end of the world.

You will recognize the format. Twenty-two restaurants–almost all of them very well known, and including many white-tablecloth places–sell tasting plates of their dishes for modest prices. Entrance to the festival itself, with its continuous live music and cooking demos, is free. It opens Midday today (Friday, October 10), and runs all day Saturday and Sunday. A list of who'll be serving (and what) can be found in an unusually thorough list here.

NOMenu invites restaurants or organizations with upcoming special events to tell us, so we might add the news to this free department. Send to news@nomenu.com.

This weekend is the first big eating festival in awhile (that being a few weeks). You will rec at Ciognize the format. Twenty-two restaurants–almost all of them very well known, and including many white-tablecloth places–sell tasting plates of their dishes for modest prices. Entrance to the festival itself, with its continuous live music and cooking demos, is free. It opens Midday today (Friday, October 10), and runs all day Saturday and Sunday. A list of who'll be serving (and what) can be found in an unusually thorough list here.
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Tom: Today is National Bacon Day!

AlmanacSquareThis is National Bacon Day. Good bacon is so intensely delicious that the temptation is strong to overeat it. Fry up a whole pound of it and leave it on the kitchen counter, and it's gone within minutes. Breakfast buffets are popular mainly because they offer unlimited bacon.

Bacon comes from the belly and sides of a pig. On pigs, as on our own bodies, fat is concentrated in those areas. The fatty pork belly is first cured in a combination of sugar, salt, and pickling spices–usually by injecting a brine solution. Then it's smoked.

At several points in the curing process, decisions about quality are made. Bacon can be dry-cured like prosciutto, or injected with salt brine. It can be cured with honey or molasses, or with cane sugar. The smoke can come from a real smokehouse with fruit or nut woods, or liquid smoke. That's what makes some bacon better (and more expensive) than others.

About three-fourths of all the bacon eaten in America is eaten at breakfast. That's a habit we picked up from the Brits. Bacon is a British invention, consumed even more avidly there than here. Almost nowhere else is bacon such a breakfast staple.

To accommodate our urge to overeat bacon, restaurants overserve it. Almost any dish sells better and at a higher price if bacon is included. This is why atrocities like the bacon cheeseburger–which ruins bacon, cheese, and ground beef simultaneously–has become so universal. The same mechanism works in the gourmet segment. Every time you see bacon wrapped around a scallop, note that the bacon piqued your interest. Even though it's a better dish without the bacon.

Deft Dining Rule #59

The addition of bacon doesn't improve every dish.

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez

Before assembling a dish that will be broiled or grilled with bacon wrapped around it, fry the bacon until it curls before you start. This is only unnecessary when the assembled dish is then deep-fried (as in oysters en brochette).

Gourmet Gazetteer

Bacon, Texas is just northwest of Wichita Falls, ten miles south of the Oklahoma state line, and adjacent to Sheppard Air Force Base. It started as a crossroads farming community–most of the land is still vast acreages of ranching. A branch of the Rock Island Railroad came through, followed by the highway that became I-44. The Interstate has an interchange with Bacon Switch Road at Bacon, used by the employees of two large manufacturing plants there. The nearest place to get a BLT or bacon and eggs is the Pioneer Restaurant on the northern edge of Wichita Falls, six miles south.

Edible Dictionary

diner, n.–A uniquely American kind of a restaurant, the roadside diner began as a stationary version of the dining cars carried on long-distance passenger trains. Some diners really were retired railroad cars, but most of them were built as restaurants and never rode the rails. They were often built by companies specializing in diners, and trucked in to the place where they'd open for business.

Like railroad diners, roadside diners are much longer than they are wide, and frequently are built in a sleek Art Deco style, with much use of fluted stainless steel inside and outside. The classic diner menu begins with traditional American breakfasts, sandwiches, hamburgers, soups, and desserts. It goes on to feature inexpensive complete dinners in a decidedly American home-cooked style.

The quality of diner food is much romanticized, and really unpredictable. But the appeal of a shiny diner is so strong that there's been a revival of the idea, with brand-new diners being built once again. A few books have been written on the subject.

Physiology Of Eating

Rudolf Leuckart, a German zoologist, was born today in 1822. He undertook the study of worms, particularly very small parasitic worms that can causes diseases. He figured out why eating undercooked pork can cause a problem: it admits the parasitic trichina worm into the body. He also did a lot of work on liver flukes, tapeworms, and other disgusting invaders. We don't have to worry about them much now as a result of Leuckart's research.

Annals Of Chain Restaurants

PepsiCo, the maker of the perennial second-place cola, ceased to be the world's largest restaurant operator today in 1997. It spun off its restaurant unit–which included Kentucky Fried Chicken, Pizza Hut, and Taco Bell–into a new company now misnamed Yum! Brands.

The Saints

This is the feast day of St. Bacchus, a former high military officer in the Roman army. When he converted to Christianity, he soon became a martyr. He was beaten to death in 303. A saint named for the Roman god of wine, he has a church named for him in Rome.

Music To Eat Turtle Soup By

Today in 1962, the Four Seasons' song Sherry made it to the top of the pop music charts. It became the group's most distinctive record, with the falsetto lead vocals of Frankie Valli and good harmonies by the other three singers. Sherry, baby.

Food And Drink Namesakes

Actor Dylan Baker, who was in two Spider-Man movies, came out of the oven today in 1959. . . Pakistani cricket professional Salman Butt (almost a rare double food name) stepped up to the Big Wicket today in 1984. . . Tang Wei, an actress in China, auditioned for life today in 1979. She passed.

Words To Eat By

"A couple of flitches of bacon are worth fifty thousand Methodist sermons and religious tracts. They are great softeners of temper and promoters of domestic harmony."–William Cobbett, nineteenth-century British political writer.

Words To Drink By

"A drink is shorter than a tale."–Unknown.

This post originally appeared on Tom's website, NOMenu.com
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Tom: Shrimp Creole, Etouffe, Stew... what's the difference?

Shrimp Creole, Etouffee, And Stew: What’s The Diff?Q. When I order shrimp etouffee in a restaurant I never know what I’m going to get. Sometimes it has tomatoes in it like shrimp Creole. Sometimes it’s brown like crawfish bisque. And I have no idea what the distinction is between an etouffee and a stew. Do you? Or is this one of those stupid questions that everyone knows the answer to except me?

A. Let’s start with what they have in common. They’re all shrimp dishes that contain so much sauce that the shrimp practically float in sauce. The point of departure is the composition of the sauce, and how the dish is cooked. The size of the shrimp typically differs, although that’s not a make-or-break issue.

Shrimp Creole generally starts off with big shrimp, seared in a hot pan with a little butter and seasonings, and then covered with the classic Creole sauce of tomatoes, onions, bell pepper, celery, bay leaves and black pepper. It’s the fanciest of the three, the one most likely to be seen in a restaurant.

“Etouffee” means “smothered.” This is a concept found everywhere in Europe, but there doesn’t seem to be an English name for it. The Italians have the best translation: “in humido.” For that preparation, medium-size shrimp are cooked with butter or oil and onions, bell peppers and celery until they’re nearly done. Then flour is added to make a light roux, followed by shrimp stock. The shrimp are cooked just a little longer, until the elements of the dish come together, and served with green onions.

A shrimp stew is a home-style dish, and a good use for shrimp small enough that you can pick up a few of them in a forkful. Shrimp stew generally includes other vegetables besides the trinity of onion, celery, and bell pepper (okra is common; chunky tomatoes are sometimes in there). Everything is cooked together, with shrimp stock or just water used as the matrix of the thing. Typically, the stew is cooked at a simmer, to the point that the shrimp become very soft. You could almost say that a shrimp stew is a shrimp gumbo without a roux.

None of these definitions is set in concrete, and finding someone with a different take on my ideas would probably require asking only one or two other cooks.

This post originally appeared on Tom's website, NOMenu.com
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Tom: It's shriveling oyster season

Diary 8|22, 23|2014: Oysters Shriveling. Good-Bye To Three Friends Of Taste..I don’t give much regard to the old myth advising us to abstain from eating raw oysters in months without an R. I got a letter about that from a gentleman who claimed to be on the old side. He says that the vibreo vulnificus bacteria is high in the Gulf of Mexico right now, and so he’s staying away from oysters. But that only affects one out of two thousand people with specific health problems, none of which I have.

What is more apparent is that the oysters have finally shriveled down to summer size. Like all other weather conditions this year, the very warm water in the Gulf was late in arriving. Which is how there could be twenty-one fried oysters on the alleged half-poor boy. It comes with a cup of soup for nine dollars at the Acme Oyster House.

The Marys and I were there for supper, after the usual ridiculous colloquy about where we would go to eat. (Everyone says that any restaurant would be fine, but every concrete proposal is rejected by all but the proponent.)

We also had a dozen grilled oysters, which suffered the heat even more. They don’t seem to contain as much water this time of year, and dwindle to almost nothing on the grill.

I will probably hear a few complaints about this for the next few weeks, even after September 1st. Aphorisms about food are rarely accurate.
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Locations : Gulf Of Mexico


Tom: Why is it so hard to get dinner reservations at a decent time?

Where Are The Good Reservations?Q. Maybe it’s just me, but it seems like every time I call a popular restaurant for a reservation, the voice on the restaurant’s line says that she only has tables at 5:15 and 9:45 p.m. Why is is so hard to get a reservation at a decent time, like 7:30 p.m.? It doesn’t even seem to help when I call weeks in advance.

A. The hidden force at work here is what restaurants call “the turn.” A restaurant with twice as many customers as seats will do all it can to force diners into two seatings: one early, one late. A reservation at 7:30 overlaps both seating times, and cuts the number of people the restaurant can serve at that table nearly in half.

If it did that, it would reduce the carrying capacity of the room, and make it harder to get reservations at any time. Since it’s anathema for a restaurant to tell customers that they must be out by a certain time (and well it should be), the only option is to give middle-of-the-evening reservations only to VIPs and serious regulars.

The best way for a customer to get around this is to dine on weekdays (because those are weak days), or during the summer. I’ll bet you can get a reservation at 7:30 tonight (this was published on August 8) in nine out of ten restaurants. You might also try becoming a big-spending regular who comes in twice a week. That will get their attention.

This post originally appeared on Tom's website, NOMenu.com
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Tom: What's the best way to peel a hard-boiled egg?

Peeling Hard-Boiled EggsQ. What’s the right way to peel a hard-boiled egg? What happens all the time is that after I crack it, the shell only breaks away in tiny flakes, and it takes forever to get them all off.

A. This question come sup about every six weeks on the radio show, which is long enough for me to forget the technique every time. I’m glad you asked now, when I can get the story into the database once and for all. This will also allow people who have different methods to post them here.

And there are many methods, most of what are only marginally effectual. Adding vinegar or salt to the water, for example, seems not to help the problem.

Here is what we know:

1. Don’t use really fresh eggs. The lady across the street from me raises chickens. The yard eggs are wonderful for scrambling ad poaching, but not very good for boiling. It seems that old eggs–like the ones you get at the supermarket most of the time–come our much better when boiled than fresh ones do.

2. Start the boiling with extreme temperature contrast. This means take them right out of the refrigerator and shock them in a lot of water at a rolling boil.

3. Finish the boil at a simmer. After a minute or less (if you’re only doing one or two eggs–another minute for five or six), lower the heat to a low simmer and let them go for nine minutes for medium eggs to 12 minutes for extra-large.

4. Chill them right away in ice water. Wait until they’re cold throughout–five minutes a longer, with a change of ice cubes–before trying to peel them.

5. Break the egg on the ends, not on the sides. You start with the fat end: one whack on the counter. Then the more pointed end, again with one good tap. Then peel.

Alternate trick: Before starting, shove a needle through the shell about half an inch deep on both ends before starting the boiling process, as above.

All right. Let’s hear from you with your favorite method. This one I know works.

This post originally appeared on Tom's website, NOMenu.com
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Tom: How do I eat out without ballooning out?

Eating Out Without Ballooning OutQ. I need to lose a few pounds, and know I should concentrate on eating chicken, fish, etc. However, I’m a little concerned about the sauces that come with most of these dishes. What are some sauces to avoid, and which ones are relatively “safe?” Or should I just accept the fact that when I eat out I’m in trouble?

A. It’s interesting to me that this question used to be asked much more often than it is now. We are clearly not getting any thinner, but maybe losing weight isn’t cool anymore. Or perhaps allergic reactions to seemingly everything have taken over. But the following still deserves consideration.

I must start by admitting that I an not a doctor, dietitian, or nutritionist, and that those professionals should be consulted if you want to have a long-term, well-informed program in dieting.

That said, I start by saying that you don’t need to give up on dining out. You just have to know what you’re eating, and which items can do the most potential damage. Ask questions and ask for low-fat dishes. Any good restaurant can honor that request.

Or do what I do: order whatever you feel like eating, and only eat half of what they serve you. The biggest problem with eating in restaurants is that out is that most of them serve too much food, and use sauces that pack the maximum flavor. Which often means cream, butter, and other delicious carriers of flavor.

The matter of savory (as opposed to sweet) sauces is a simple one, if you’re trying to eat light. Just look for and avoid fat. Sauces made from butter (meuniere, buerre blanc, hollandaise, roux-based sauces), cream (lots of those, but all pretty obvious), drippings (pan gravies) or olive oil (New Orleans-style bordelaise) are the high ones, and to be avoided if you want to lighten up.

Those without fat are usually okay. They include most sauces dominated by tomatoes, demi-glace, stocks, wine, or herbs. Most of these have a little butter or olive oil in them, but not enough to worry about. Nothing else in them carries large caloric loads.

But I still come back to an incontrovertible fact: you can eat almost anything you want, as long as you don’t eat it all the time or in enormous quantities.

This post originally appeared on Tom's website, NOMenu.com
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Topics : Hospitality_Recreation
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Locations : New Orleans


Tom: Today is Seafood Poor Boy (And Loaf) Day

July 16 In EatingIn New Orleans, it’s Seafood Poor Boy (And Loaf) Day. The seminal seafood poor boy is the oyster loaf. Fried oysters, buttered French bread, a few shots of hot sauce, pickles. . . perfection.

Variations abound. Almost any other seafood that can be fried finds its way onto French bread. Shrimp poor boys are almost as popular as oyster. (The price hike in oysters from the oil spill may have even made shrimp sammiches more popular.) Catfish has all but replaced speckled trout on poor boys. Soft-shell crabs present a unique poor boy experience, as you start off eating legs and claws, work into the body, and end up with legs and claws at the end.

A rare and wonderful variation on the seafood sandwich is the seafood “boat.” It starts with an unsliced loaf of regular white bread, with the top cut off and the inside hollowed. After being toasted and buttered, it’s filled with oysters, shrimp, or catfish, or all three. Chad’s Bistro in Metairie and Morton’s in Madisonville are the only restaurants I know make boats these days. Casamento’s uses the same bread, but cuts it differently to make their oyster and shrimp loaves.

Of this there is no question: a seafood loaf made with freshly-fried, crisp seafood on fresh and toasted bread is one of the greatest pleasures of the neighborhood New Orleans cafes and seafood houses.

Deft Dining Rule #655

Any poor boy shop that puts fewer than a dozen and a half oysters on an oysters loaf is not worthy of selling the sandwich.

Gourmet Gazetteer

Tuna, Pennsylvania is right up against the New York state line in the western part of the state, seventy-five miles south of Buffalo. It takes its name from the Tunungwant Creek, which runs along its western side. Locals have long shortened the original Native American name to Tuna Creek. It’s a tributary of the Allegheny River, taking Tuna’s water down to New Orleans by way of the Ohio. It hardly needs to be said that no tuna fish will be found in it. The Tuna Valley has been farmed by Americans since at least the 1830s. The restaurants are all about two miles south in the town of Bradford. Order the tuna salad sandwich at the Farm Family Restaurant.

Edible Dictionary

olive salad, n. – A mixture of crushed, chopped, or whole olives with celery,cauliflower, carrots, roasted peppers, garlic, oregano, basil, and olive oil. There’s a good deal of variation in the vegetables and how finely they’re chopped. The mixture is allowed to marinate for days or even weeks before it’s eaten. The principal employment of olive salad is as a dressing on the muffuletta sandwich, a New Orleans Italian specialty. It’s also used to top Italian-style salads.

Speed Eating

The first parking meters in America were installed on this date in 1935, of all places, Oklahoma City. They cost a nickel for an hour, but it was the middle of the Depression (and the Dust Bowl, too.) I wonder how many meals were rushed to ruin by the threat of a parking meter about to run out of coin. I use parking meters a lot, and was very pleased when the ones on New Orleans streets began accepting credit cards. But I still carry a small cache of dollar coins for the older meters.

Annals Of Cookbooks

Today is the anniversary of the first appearance on the Web of Amazon.com, in 1995. Now the web site is a major force to be reckoned with in the sales of books. Finding cookbooks on Amazon is incomparably easy. I like the fact that they rank books by sales within many categories.

Music To Eat Turkey By

Today in 1967, Arlo Guthrie first performed Alice’s Restaurant, his twenty-minute-long song/comedy routine at the Newport Folk Festival. Alice’s Restaurant was a real place, and still exists. In the recorded version of the song, Guthrie talks about eating two “Thanksgiving dinners that can’t be beat.”

Food Entrepreneurs

Today is the birthday of Orville Redenbacher, in 1907. He lived to be 88; he died of a heart attack while taking a whirlpool bath. Although his name and face became synonymous with branded, high-end popcorn, he was a real person–a real agronomist, in fact, working with actual grain and fields and production equipment before he rolled out his popcorn in 1976. I had him as a guest on my radio show in 1979; he was exactly like the guy you saw on TV. Although he’s gone, ConAgra Foods (which owns the brand now) has brought his digitized image back to life.

Food Namesakes

Dancer and actor Ginger Rogers was born today in 1911. . . General Amos Fries was appointed the first chemical warfare head of the U.S. Army, which has since sworn off such things, today in 1920. . . Hollywood movie producer Jude Tucker was born today in 1989. “Tucker” is Australian slang for “food.” That’s his middle name; his real last name is Fitzmorris. I am his father. Jude’s spending his birthday morning in a meeting at Paramount about a new movie.

Words To Eat By

“Do one thing and do it better than anyone.”–Orville Redenbacher, born today in 1907.

Words To Drink By

“Everyone who drinks is not a poet. Some of us drink because we’re not poets.”–Dudley Moore, in the movie Arthur.

This post originally appeared on Tom's website, NOMenu.com
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